Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
